1973-1987 C-10 Manual Brake Conversion KIT 1.0 Bore Master Cylinder

  

THE SUPERIOR MANUAL BRAKE CONVERSION KIT. Doesn't Your C-10 Deserve the Best? NOTE: The KIT with the MOPAR/Strange Style master cylinder will require the upper two mounting studs to be removed from the brake pedal assembly bracket.

This will require removing the brake pedal assembly and cutting the spot welds that holds the studs to the brake pedal assembly bracket. Each KIT will come with new stainless steel mounting hardware if removing the upper studs. If you want to remove the all four studs on the brake pedal assembly bracket, each KIT will come with stainless steel mounting hardware to replace the studs.

The kit will require drilling a 23/64 hole in the brake pedal to be installed correctly. You will also have to enlarge the four brake pedal mounting bracket's holes and the firewall mounting holes to 1/2 diameter. You will also have to add a 5/8" to 3/4" push rod hole in the brake pedal mounting bracket and firewall. If done correctly, this should not give you any issues if going back to a vacuum booster in the future. All modifications needed to install this KIT properly are outlined in the installation instructions.

Kit with NO Master Cylinder, NO Brake Line Adapters, NO Prop Valve. Use almost any master cylinder (GM, Ford, MOPAR, Strange, Wilwood, Baer). For The Package (NO Master Cylinder, NO Brake Line Adapters, NO Prop Valve).

1.0 Bore Manual Brake Applications. Front Stock Disc Brakes (D52 Caliper).

Rear Stock or Aftermarket Drum. Front Stock Disc Brakes with Wilwood D52 Caliper.

For MOPAR/Strange Style Master Cylinder. 1.125 Bore Master Cylinder Applications.

This manual brake conversion kits comes with. · 6061-T6 ALUMINUM adapter plate w/ integrated pushrod retention cup. · Matching Rubber Firewall Gasket - Keeps the engine bay sealed from the car's interior. · Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware - NO rusty bolts or nuts. · Adjustable Pushrod Assembly - Engineered to work with and function correctly with your vehicle.

· Master cylinder with the bore size and style listed in the ad. · Brake Line Adapters - For ease of installing stock brake lines to the master cylinder supplied in the kit. · Optional Prop Valve that is listed in the ad. · Detailed (5 Page) Installation Manual. · 6 to 1 Pedal Ratio - Creates less effort by the driver to stop the car and multiplies the fluid pressure in the system.

No other manual brake conversion kit can match this. · Dual Bolt Patter on the Adapter Plate - Use GM, Ford, or MOPAR master cylinders.

No other manual brake conversion kit can do this. · Better pedal modulation for consistent braking - No low engine vacuum issues to worry about.

The adapter plate is CNC machined by a water jet from rigid 1/8 thick aluminum with dimensions that covers up the hole in the firewall after you remove the power booster. This modification will clean up your firewall by getting rid of the big, bulky power booster. Racers do this swap when their engine does not make enough vacuum to operate the power booster, to shed a few pounds to make their car lighter, or to clean up the engine bay.

The pro-touring fans use manual brakes to get a better "feel" of their brakes when heading into a corner at a high rate of speed. The adapter plate can also be polished up to a mirror finish if needed. · Higher Pedal Ratio = Less Leg Effort = Increased Braking Performance. · Smaller Bore Master Cylinder = Higher Fluid Pressure = Increased Braking Performance.

· Kit comes with a gasket matched to the adapter plate to seal the passenger compartment from the engine bay. The other kits do not offer a gasket in their kits. · Kit comes with a dual bolt pattern to run different master cylinders from GM, Ford, MOPAR, Strange, Wilwood, Baer. The other manual brakes kits do not have this feature.

· Kit comes with the correct size master cylinder that is matched to the size of the front and rear brakes. The other manual brake kits offer a larger bore master cylinder which generates less brake line pressure. Parts to Enhance Your Manual Brakes. · New Rubber or Stainless-Steel Flexible Brakes Lines (front and rear) - Old rubber lines will "balloon" causing loss of pressure within the braking system. · Aftermarket Performance Brake Pads - EBC, Hawk, Wilwood.

I will be happy to answer any of your questions.