NOTE: The KIT with the MOPAR/Strange Style master cylinder will require the upper two mounting studs to be removed from the brake pedal assembly bracket. This will require removing the brake pedal assembly and cutting the spot welds that holds the studs to the brake pedal assembly bracket. Each KIT will come with new stainless steel mounting hardware if removing the upper studs. If you want to remove all four studs on the brake pedal assembly bracket, each KIT will come with stainless steel mounting hardware to replace the studs. All modifications needed to install this KIT properly are outlined in the installation instructions.
Kit with NO Master Cylinder and NO Brake Line Adapters. Use almost any master cylinder (GM, Ford, MOPAR, Strange, Wilwood, Baer).
For The Package (NO Master Cylinder, NO Brake Line Adapters, NO Prop Valve). 7/8 Bore Master Cylinder Applications. Gen ProSpindle with Wilwood Disc Stock Disc Brake Kit.
Rear Stock or Aftermarket Drum. For MOPAR/Strange Style Master Cylinder. For WILWOOD Bare Finish Master Cylinder (NO Prop Valve). For WILWOOD Bare Finish Master Cylinder w/ WILWOOD Prop Valve.
For WILWOOD Polished Master Cylinder (NO Prop Valve). For WILWOOD Polished Master Cylinder w/ WILWOOD Prop Valve.
For WILWOOD Black Master Cylinder (NO Prop Valve). For WILWOOD Black Master Cylinder w/ WILWOOD Prop Valve. 15/16 Bore Master Cylinder Applications. Rear Stock GM, Factory Calipers (NON-Metric) Disc Brake Conversion Kit. Rear Wilwood Disc Brake Conversion Kit - 1.38 4 piston diameter or smaller.1.0 Bore Manual Brake Applications. Front Stock Front Disc (D52 Caliper).
Front Stock Front Disc (With Wilwood D52 Aluminum Replacement Caliper). 1.032 Bore Master Cylinder Applications.
Rear TBM/Strange/Aerospace Disc Brake Conversion Kit. Rear Stock or Aftermarket Drum Brakes. 1.125 Bore Master Cylinder Applications.
This manual brake conversion kit comes with. · 6061-T6 ALUMINUM adapter plate w/ integrated pushrod retention cup.· Matching Rubber Firewall Gasket - Keeps the engine bay sealed from the cars interior. · Stainless Steel Mounting Hardware - NO rusty bolts or nuts. Adjustable Pushrod Assembly - Engineered to work with and function correctly with your vehicle. · Master cylinder with the bore size listed in the ad. · Detailed (5 Page) Installation Manual. · 6 to 1 Pedal Ratio - Creates less effort by the driver to stop the car and multiplies the fluid pressure in the system. No other manual brake conversion kit can match this. · Dual Bolt Patter on the Adapter Plate - Use GM, Ford, or MOPAR master cylinders.
No other manual brake conversion kit can do this. · Better pedal modulation for consistent braking - No low engine vacuum issues to worry about. The adapter plate is CNC machined by a water jet from rigid 1/8 thick aluminum with dimensions that covers up the hole in the firewall after you remove the power booster.
This modification will clean up your firewall by getting rid of the big, bulky power booster. Racers do this swap when their engine does not make enough vacuum to operate the power booster, to shed a few pound to make their car lighter, or to clean up the engine bay. The pro-touring fans use manual brakes to get a better "feel" of their brakes when heading into a corner at a high rate of speed.
The adapter plate can also be polished up to a mirror finish if needed. · Higher Pedal Ratio = Less Leg Effort = Increased Braking Performance.
· Smaller Bore Master Cylinder = Higher Fluid Pressure = Increased Braking Performance. · Kit comes with a gasket matched to the adapter plate to seal the passenger compartment from the engine bay. The other kits do not offer a gasket in their kits.
· Kit comes with a dual bolt pattern to run different master cylinders from GM, Ford, and MOPAR. The other manual brakes kits do not have this feature. · Kit comes with the correct size master cylinder that is matched to the size of the front and rear brakes.
The other manual brake kits offer a larger bore master cylinder which generates less brake line pressure. · New Rubber or Stainless Steel Flexible Brakes Lines (front and rear) - Old rubber lines will "balloon" causing loss of pressure within the braking system. I will be happy to answer any of your questions.